Among the classic recipes of Argentine gastronomy, tortitas with pork cracklings (chicharrones) are a true delicacy. This delicious blend of leavened dough and crunchy cracklings is a burst of flavor, ideal for an afternoon snack or breakfast. In fact, if there is one thing that unites us as Latin Americans, beyond the language and the passion for soccer, it is our ability to create divine treats from the most humble ingredients. At the altar of popular gastronomy, tortitas with chicharrones are the supreme deity. In Mendoza, they are the heart of the afternoon; in the Argentine countryside, they are the companion of mate; and in the rest of the continent, they are the testimony of a culture that wastes nothing and knows that high-quality fat is, quite simply, pure flavor.
Today at Club de Cocina, we tell you why this rustic baked good is the king of snacks. We are going to travel through the roads of Latin America to see how it changes its name and shape, but never its essence. Because at the end of the day, we are all looking for the same thing: something crunchy, something tender, and a mate (or a coffee) to go with it.
Argentina: The Land of the Tortita and Rendered Fat
To start talking, we have to stand our ground at home. In Argentina, the "fat" culture is part of our DNA. Tortitas with chicharrones (or simply "tortitas" in our beloved Mendoza) are the result of the fusion between European bakery and the Creole need to use slaughter by-products. The chicharrón is nothing more than the fibrous residue left after melting cow or pork fat to obtain the rendered lard. What used to be "waste" is today the treasure that gives soul to our dough.
In Mendoza, we make them smaller, almost bite-sized, with a dough that does not seek to be airy like a brioche, but rather compact, flavorful, and with just the right amount of salt. But if you go to the Buenos Aires or Santa Fe area, you will find the country "torta de chicharrón": huge discs of dough sometimes cooked in clay ovens or even on the grill, with much more rustic and larger pieces of cracklings.
Chile and Tortillas de Rescoldo: The Flavor of Fire
We cross the Andes and the landscape changes, but the aroma of hot fat is still there. In Chile, there is a beautiful and ancestral tradition: the tortilla de rescoldo. It is a dough similar to ours but, in its most traditional version, it is cooked buried in the hot ashes (the rescoldo) of the previous night's fire. Many of these tortillas incorporate pork cracklings inside, giving them a moisture and power of flavor that blows your mind.
There are also the "churrascas," which are close cousins of our pinched tortitas, but they are quickly cooked on a griddle or grill. Chileans know the secret is for the crackling to release its oil into the crumb while it cooks over the fire, creating a texture that is difficult to replicate in a modern electric oven.
Uruguay: Brothers of Mate and Cracklings
On the other side of the river, our Uruguayan brothers share the same passion. "Pan con chicharrón" is a staple of any neighborhood bakery in Montevideo. Unlike the Mendoza tortita, Uruguayan crackling bread usually has a more elongated or rustic bun format, with a slightly softer crumb but always dotted with those brown, crunchy bits that force you to ask for one more.
Colombia: The Arepa de Chicharrón and the Caribbean Flavor
If we continue up the map, we reach Colombia, where corn begins to gain ground over wheat, but the crackling remains king. There, the "arepa de chicharrón" is an institution. It is not exactly a wheat flour tortita, but it serves the same emotional and gastronomic function. The corn dough is mixed with ground or very finely chopped cracklings before going on the griddle. The result is a golden arepa, with a toasted aroma that perfumes your whole house.
In Antioquia, for example, crackling is a fundamental part of the famous Bandeja Paisa, but putting it inside a dough is the way they enjoy it as a snack or "mecato" at any time of the day.
Mexico: Pork Cracklings and Gorditas
Mexico is a universe apart. There, pork cracklings are a religion. While they consume them in a thousand ways, "gorditas de chicharrón" are the closest in concept to our tortitas. They are discs of corn dough (or flour in the north) filled with a pressed crackling stew. Upon biting, you find that explosion of flavorful fat and meaty texture. It is the ultimate breakfast of champions in the markets of Mexico City.
The Science of the Chicharrón: Why We Love It
What is it about crackling that attracts us so much? The answer is technical: the Maillard effect and umami. When fat is cooked over low heat, the proteins and natural sugars in the connective tissue caramelize, creating those aromatic compounds our brain identifies as "comfort food." Additionally, the crackling provides a texture that breaks the monotony of the bread crumb. It is that "crunch" that gives us immediate satisfaction.
At Cooking Club, we defend the use of artisanal cracklings. None of those bagged snacks sold at the supermarket. Real cracklings come out of the iron pot, after hours of melting the fat over minimum heat. It is a process that requires patience, but the final result in the tortita is abysmal.
Ingredients for Authentic Mendoza Tortitas
To make one kilo of flour (which seems like a lot, but I assure you they fly), you will need:
- 1000 grams of wheat flour (All-purpose or bread flour).
- 25 grams of fine salt (so the saltiness is felt).
- 150 grams of melted fat (beef tallow is the most traditional).
- 600 ml of warm water (key for the yeast to wake up happy).
- 50 grams of fresh yeast (or a 10g packet of dry yeast).
- 150 grams of very finely chopped cracklings (the soul of the party).
Step by Step by Cooking Club
Making tortitas is a ritual that cannot be rushed. First, we create a flour volcano and put the salt around the edges so it doesn't touch the yeast directly at first. In the center go the warm water and the yeast. We start mixing from the center outward until a paste is formed.
That is when the melted (but not boiling!) fat comes in. Knead vigorously for about 10 minutes. Don't be scared if the dough feels heavy; it's because of the amount of fat. Once the dough is smooth, we pour in the rain of cracklings. Integrate well, roll out the dough to one finger's thickness, and cut the circles. Pricking them with a fork is essential: it's not just for aesthetics; it's so the tortita doesn't puff up like a balloon and keeps its classic shape.
The Secret of the Oven
The oven must be very hot, about 200-220 degrees (400-430°F). Tortitas need a strong hit of heat so the fat bubbles inside the dough and the crackling finishes browning. They should be ready in 15 or 20 minutes. The aroma coming out of your kitchen will have the neighbors ringing your doorbell.
More than a recipe, an identity
Passed down from grandfather to grandson, this recipe cannot be missing from the table on a mate afternoon, so here is one of the best recipes so you always have your tortitas with cracklings on hand. They are unforgettable and tasty tortitas, made with a leavened dough and accompanied by cracklings that give them an irresistible flavor.
Whether you are in Mendoza, Santiago de Chile, Montevideo, or Medellín, the tortita with cracklings is the symbol of hospitality. It is the dish placed in the center of the table for everyone to grab. It is proof that with flour, water, and a little bit of fat, you can be very happy.
Tortitas with cracklings are an authentic treasure in our gastronomy, an ideal fusion of flavors and textures that transports us directly to our family roots. This recipe is full of tradition and encourages us to share moments of joy. Enjoy!
As always, we leave you the video with the detailed step-by-step so you can see the consistency of the dough and the right point of the cracklings. No excuses not to knead!
